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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.